Paste all’Ammiraglio, or Tomatoey Pasta Salad

This was a standby of Adriana Lotti, who was head of staff at the academic program my father directed for a number of years in Rome. It requires first-rate sun-ripened tomatoes and is wonderful when the weather is hot.

  • 1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, blanched, peeled, seeded and chopped
  • 2 tablespoons salted or pickled capers, rinsed
  • 5 leaves coarsely torn basil (or to taste)
  • Olive oil (about a quarter cup, or to taste)
  • Salt and pepper to taste.
  • 1 pound penne or other short pasta, cooked until al dente in lightly salted water, drained, and cooled by running cold water over the colander.

Combine the ingredients, check seasoning, and chill. This is, as you have no doubt noted, extremely simple. Feel free to modify it, for example by adding pitted black olives as well. Another option, which would make it into a full meal (specially if served with a green salad) rather than a picnic accompaniment, would be a half pound of shredded mozzarella.

Mix well and check seasoning before you serve it.

This pasta salad will serve 4-6. What to serve with it? Depends; if it’s quite hot a lightly chilled Lambrusco will be wonderful, as will a light white wine, for example a Colli Albani. So will water or beer.


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Categories: Tomatoey Pasta Sauces

Author:Cosa Bolle in Pentola

Italy boasts an astonishing number of varietals, denominations, and wines, and tremendous changes are sweeping the land. New wines are being created, new DOCs are being introduced, and the existing denominations are overhauling their regulations both to reflect the practices adopted by their member wineries and to favor improvements in quality. Even the most staid and stolid region can flower seemingly overnight, emerging with exciting new wines and wineries that require rewriting the enological maps and rethinking one's positions. And, of course, recipes too, because cuisine and wine are closely intertwined and it's difficult to imagine one without the other.


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