At The Ristorante Degli Angeli in Magliano Sabina: An IGP Lunch

Ristorante Degli Angeli's View From the Terrace

Ristorante Degli Angeli’s View From the Terrace

Last year, during our return trip from the presentation of the 2008 Taurasi, Carlo Macchi exited the highway at Magliano Sabina and began to wind his way up a steep narrow twisty road whose only saving characteristic was good asphalt; I had no idea where we were going, but when we arrived at our destination, the Ristorante degli Angeli, was very much impressed by the food and the service.

This year when we decided to arrange a meeting of the Giovani Promettenti, it was obvious that it would have to include food, and just as obvious that it should be held in a place that would be mid-way between Tuscany, where some of us are, and Naples, where Luciano is. Rome is at the mid-point, but it can take hours to get from the highway into town, so it wasn’t a good solution. Magliano Sabina instead is, and we therefore decided to return to the Trattoria degli Angeli once again. And were quite happy with our decision; the food was, if anything, better than last time, and with our noggins well supplied with vital nutrients the meeting was a great success.

Ristorante Degli Angeli Bell Pepper Cream

Ristorante Degli Angeli Bell Pepper Cream

While we were browsing the menus we were brought bell pepper mousse, served with crisply toasted bread, and it was just the thing to set the atmosphere.

Ristorante Degli Angeli Guanciale And Artichoke Hearts

Ristorante Degli Angeli Guanciale And Artichoke Hearts

The antipasti section of the menu is rich and varied, with hot and cold options. I selected guanciale, cured pork jowl, with pickled artichoke hearts and toasted bread.

Ristorante Degli Angeli Luciano's Antipasto

Ristorante Degli Angeli Luciano’s Antipasto

Luciano had I’m not sure what, but it looked good.

Ristorante Degli Angeli Coratella

Ristorante Degli Angeli Coratella

And Carlo, who is irresistibly drawn the the quinto quarto — everything that remains when the four quarters of the animal have been chopped up, in other words organ meats — opted for coratella, which is lamb liver, heart, and lungs, which can be prepared in all manner of ways. Here they were stewed and tasty.

Ristorante Degli Angeli Fettuccine with Figoccette

Ristorante Degli Angeli Fettuccine with Figoccette

The first was a surprise; the waitress sized us up and asked if we wanted to try Fettuccine con le Figoccette, which are fettuccine seasoned with a sauce made from the buds that form (and fall off) where a fig tree will later make figs; in this part of Lazio they harvest them, wash them, remove the resin they contain, and then sautè them and use them to season pasta, together with cheese. “Sfizioso assai,” quite fanciful, said Luciano.

Ristorante Degli Angeli Roast Gunea Hen

Ristorante Degli Angeli Roast Gunea Hen

Afterwords a number of us opted for roast guinea hen.

I instead decided on Agnello Socttadito, roast lamb chops, because neither of my kids likes lamb, and I therefore enjoy it when I can.

Ristorante Degli Angeli Agnello Scottadito

Ristorante Degli Angeli Agnello Scottadito

And I did.

Ristorante Degli Angeli's Agnello Scottadito, Gone

Ristorante Degli Angeli’s Agnello Scottadito, Gone

Ristorante Degli Angeli Orange and Olive Salad

Ristorante Degli Angeli Orange and Olive Salad

With it, an orange and baked olive salad in which the bitterness of the olives contrasted nicely with the sweet acidity of the oranges.

The Ristorante Degli Angeli's Strozzapreti Piccanti

The Ristorante Degli Angeli’s Strozzapreti Piccanti

Since we hadn’t eaten enough, instead of dessert we were offered a second pasta dish, Strozzapreti Piccanti, which consisted of home-made strozzapreti seasoned with a sauce made from sweet and hot pepper, anchovy fillets, wild fennel, and herbs. Nice and it packed a punch.

Ristorante Degli Angeli Sorbet

Ristorante Degli Angeli Sorbet

I then opted for a sorbetto

Ristorante Degli Angeli Caffè

Ristorante Degli Angeli Caffè

And of course, coffee.

Ristorante Degli Angeli IGP, The Young And Promising

Ristorante Degli Angeli IGP, The Young And Promising

From left to right, Roberto, Stefano, me, Luciano and Carlo. It was close to 4 PM by the time we finished talking and started home. A fine day, and if you’re in the vicinity of Magliano Sabina (it’s a little ways north of Rome, off the A1 Autostrada, by all means think about stopping at the Ristorante degli Angeli!

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Categories: Illustrated Recipes And More

Author:Cosa Bolle in Pentola

Italy boasts an astonishing number of varietals, denominations, and wines, and tremendous changes are sweeping the land. New wines are being created, new DOCs are being introduced, and the existing denominations are overhauling their regulations both to reflect the practices adopted by their member wineries and to favor improvements in quality. Even the most staid and stolid region can flower seemingly overnight, emerging with exciting new wines and wineries that require rewriting the enological maps and rethinking one's positions. And, of course, recipes too, because cuisine and wine are closely intertwined and it's difficult to imagine one without the other.

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